Threads of Time: A Scottish Ancestry Travel Adventure Through Strathaven, Darvel & Glassford

Jana and Jerry at Loudoun Hill, near Darvel

My Scottish Ancestry Travel Adventure

Welcome to my Scottish ancestry travel adventure, where I share the unforgettable journey of tracing my roots through the rolling hills and historic towns of Scotland. From cozy breakfasts in Strathaven to emotional discoveries in Glassford and Darvel, this trip was more than sightseeing—it was a pilgrimage into my family’s past. Join me as I walk the paths my ancestors once did, uncovering stories, landscapes, and legacies that still echo today.

A Lifelong Passion for Family History

My journey into genealogy began long before my Scottish ancestry travel adventure ever appeared in this blog. I’ve always been obsessed with my family history—especially the story of the Wood Family. When I was young, descendants of James and Isabella Wood would gather every Fourth of July in Brandon, Texas to celebrate our heritage. Back then, it was more than a reunion—it was a homecoming. Most of the attendees had grown up together in the countryside surrounding Brandon, and the sense of community was palpable. I remember the heat inside the un-airconditioned community center, but more vividly, I remember the joy: adults hugging and laughing, the hum of excited conversation spilling out of open windows.

From Reunion Roots to Research Roads

The highlight of every reunion was when Pat Williams stood up to speak. Pat, to the best of my knowledge, was the first in our family to do genealogical fieldwork in Scotland. She traveled to Scotland and walked where James and Isabella once walked. I’d sit cross-legged on the floor, hanging on every word. My grandmother, Carrie Jean Ferguson, also researched our family’s history and filled my childhood with stories of James, Isabella, their children, and the generations that followed. Between those two women, I didn’t stand a chance—and I don’t think either of them would apologize for sparking my obsession. I certainly don’t.

But obsessions don’t sit quietly. They demand action. Over the years, I’ve added to our family’s story through research, and eventually launched this blog to share letters, photos, and discoveries with other descendants. In 1994, I visited Passford Farm, the ancestral home of James Wood and generations before him. That trip only deepened my passion. Since then, we’ve returned to Darvel, Strathaven, and Glassford multiple times, and plan to continue visiting every few years. This blog entry is based on our 2024 trip, and we’re already preparing for an epic 2026 journey, when several cousins will join us to walk the paths they’ve only heard about in stories passed down by our family historians. The obsession goes even further than research and trips. In 2017, my husband and I purchased James and Isabella Wood’s home in Texas, where we now live.

exterior view of Strathaven Hotel — The Strathaven Hotel

Strathaven Hotel: A Taste of Scotland’s Warmth

Our home base for the trip was the charming Strathaven Hotel, nestled in the heart of the village. Each morning began with what became my favorite meal of the entire journey. The continental breakfast bar offered buttery scones, creamy yogurt, and fresh fruits—simple, elegant, and comforting. (An additional bonus was that the Strathaven Hotel was built prior to James Wood’s birth. Both he and Isabella would have seen this building and possibly even been inside.)

plate with Scottish breakfast food on it — Scottish breakfast at the Strathaven Hotel

But the real highlight was the menu. I often chose the traditional Scottish breakfast: eggs, potato scones, sausages, baked beans, a roasted tomato, and a slice of “slice”—a uniquely Scottish sausage baked in a loaf pan and skillet-fried. One morning, I tried the smoked salmon omelet, and it was rich, smoky, and unforgettable.

Jana sitting at Taal restaurant table — Taal is located on a beautiful river running through the center of Strathaven.

Jana and headstone in Glassford Cemetery — The grave of Isabella Riddell Wood’s parents

Strathaven itself is a quiet gem, with winding streets and stone buildings that invite you to slow down. One evening, we dined at Taal, an outstanding Thai restaurant in town—unexpected and absolutely amazing.

Ancestral Connections in Newmilns & Glassford

This trip was deeply personal. In Newmilns, I had already seen photos of the Wood family headstone online. Recognizing the buildings in the background, I walked into the walled churchyard and—almost miraculously—went straight to the graves. It felt like the past had been waiting for me. This headstone marked the graves of James Wood’s brother, John, and his family.

Glassford Cemetery was a different story. Surrounded by trees and hedges, with no landmarks to guide me, I wandered through high grass in the rain. My shoes were muddy, my pants soaked. In a moment of exasperation, I looked up and said aloud, “If you’re listening, I could use a little help finding you.” I took two more steps—and there they were. I stood in front of the Riddell family graves (Isabella’s parents, among others), stunned and moved. It felt like a whisper from the past.

Loudoun Hill: Where History and Family Meet

Heather with Loudoun Hill in background — Loudoun Hill and beautiful heather

Walking Loudoun Hill was one of the most stirring moments of the trip. Besides the breathtaking beauty, this is also the site of the Battle of Loudoun Hill, Robert the Bruce’s first decisive victory over King Edward’s forces. The Spirit of Scotland Monument, a tribute to William Wallace is located on Loudoun Hill, and the views stretch endlessly across the countryside.

But for me, this hill held personal meaning. Just beside it lies Passford Farm, where my great, great, great grandfather James Wood was born in 1799—as was his father before him. Between Passford and Loudoun Hill sits Loudounhill Farm, where James’s mother was born. So much family history in one place.

Today, I live in the house where James Wood died. To stand where his life began, knowing I reside where it ended, felt like closing a circle drawn across centuries. The land remembered.

Darvel Museum: Lace, Legacy & Isabella’s Veil

Isabella Riddell Wood’s bridal veil on display at the Cell Block Museum

In Darvel, we visited the library and museum, once the heart of Scotland’s machine lace-making industry. The exhibits were modest but meaningful.

My great, great, great grandmother, Isabella Riddell Wood, was born at Heads Farm, just north of Strathaven. She married James Wood, and together they immigrated to Texas in 1851 with their nine children. Isabella brought her bridal veil, now on display at the Hill County Cell Block Museum in Hillsboro, Texas.

At the Darvel museum, I flipped through lace pattern books while looking at photos of Isabella’s veil on my phone. I didn’t find an exact match, but several patterns came close. In that quiet moment, I felt as though I was touching the past, bridging centuries through thread and memory.

I would have loved to sit down with Isabella over a cup of tea, to hear her stories, to ask about her wedding day and the veil she so carefully preserved. That veil, now admired by her descendants, is more than fabric—it’s a symbol of resilience, love, and legacy.

Final Reflections: A Journey Through Time

Man and woman walking in a barn area — Jana touring James and Isabella’s last home in Scotland.

This wasn’t just a trip—it was a pilgrimage. Each village, each gravestone, each bite of breakfast brought me closer to understanding where I come from. Scotland, with its rugged beauty and quiet strength, welcomed me like family.

If you’re ever drawn to explore your roots, I can’t recommend it enough. There’s magic in the places that made you—even if you’re only just discovering them.